i seem to remember that it helps to spray down the surface with water (and soap i think) with allows you to move it around after application and work out wrinkles. at least thats what they do with vinyl stickers.
As somebody who knows a LOT about wrapping and did it for years. I will tell you have it hydro-dipped and then shot with a ceramic clear. You won't regret that.
Any real wrap material goes on dry. Always. Make sure you are getting an air regressed and heat activated premium cast vinyl like 3M 180C with the matching laminate. Ink needs to not be pigment. Solvent ink is what's used 99% of the time.
They have a lifetime guarantee against fading. That's BS. With any solvent ink on any substrate under any laminate...it will eventually fade outdoors. Sure there are factors such as sun and more...but unless you are keeping it inside all the time...it WILL fade eventually. Could be a few years to over 10 without much sun. Lifetime warranty against fading...Red flag right there.
Another red flag is this...they sell calendared 3M 160 or 135 vinyl for their wrap kits...just like the big camo company does. Just to say they're using 3M. Check the backing paper and it WILL say 3M on it if it's 3M. You have to pay extra for the premium 180-C. Instead, they sell you the . That is junk compared to the 180C when it comes to comformability and stretching.
You need 3M adhesive Primer for all inside semi-tight to tight corners. You can use 3M sealer or a Seal-It pen on the edges. Have a heat gun and plenty of extra vinyl for practicing. Watch a lot of videos online. That will help.
All plastic must be prepped and cleaned with something like denatured alcohol too.
Anyway...I would still hydro-dip. I will never wrap an ATV or UTV again. I am too fussy. I did an Outty with 180C (the best you can get) and I hated it.
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