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Guest
·After looking at some other designs I saw on the web at this link I came up with this design for a bead breaker which is the most difficult part of changing a tire if you don't have one. With this it's the easiest part.
The bead braker was made up of 1x3 wood and two peices were screwed together to make the ram and lever part. I added .065' steel plates at the pivot and to attach the ram. I learned the hard way that you need that plate on the pivot for strength. I also added a piece of 1/8' aluminum plate to the ram which is bent to the shape of the wheel because it slid off the tire with just the piece of wood. I made two rams, one of which is 2' longer for front tires. The bolts are 3/4'. It's attached to the wall with 2 1/2' drywall screws into 2 studs.
The tire mount is a 15' wheel that I cut in half with a sawzall and added rubber automotive vacuum hose to both sides that I slit down the middle. This makes it fit perfect to the wheels. I used 14' 5/8 bolt to hold the wheel to the bench.
First I break the bead on both sides of the tire then start with the tire irons. I have 3 irons that that cost about $26 for the lot. You also need rim protectors. So far I just cut up a 2 litre bottle and used that to success but I think I'm going to try somthing thicker next time like a 409 bottle.
It's much more difficult to put on the new tire then it is to get the old one off. When installing the new tire, the first side goes on easy if you soap up the bead good you can install it with out tools. Just keep pushing it around. Now is the time to line up the dot on the tire(the lightest part of the tire) to the valve stem(the heavyest part of the wheel). Next start working the tire onto the wheel and hold one side with a tire iron and I found it easiest to hold the other with the ram of the bead breaker. Make sure to keep the tire pushed into the middle of the wheel. It makes the rest go on much smoother. keep working the tire around a little at a time. Too much at once and you can dammage the tire. Make sure it's soaped up too. Once it's on, air it up and seat the bead. It pops loud when it seats. Might want to wear some safty goggles while doing this as soap will come flying out. Reinstall your schrader valve and set the pressure.
For ballancing I made a steel rod fit two old bearings out of my rollerblades and set it on two jack stands. I add weight at the top of the wheel until it will stay in any position I put it in. I've never had a ballance issue doing it this way.
I hope this might help anyone who might want to take on the task themself and save some bucks. I've change out two tires now on it and it only took about 20 minutes a tire.
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The bead braker was made up of 1x3 wood and two peices were screwed together to make the ram and lever part. I added .065' steel plates at the pivot and to attach the ram. I learned the hard way that you need that plate on the pivot for strength. I also added a piece of 1/8' aluminum plate to the ram which is bent to the shape of the wheel because it slid off the tire with just the piece of wood. I made two rams, one of which is 2' longer for front tires. The bolts are 3/4'. It's attached to the wall with 2 1/2' drywall screws into 2 studs.
The tire mount is a 15' wheel that I cut in half with a sawzall and added rubber automotive vacuum hose to both sides that I slit down the middle. This makes it fit perfect to the wheels. I used 14' 5/8 bolt to hold the wheel to the bench.
First I break the bead on both sides of the tire then start with the tire irons. I have 3 irons that that cost about $26 for the lot. You also need rim protectors. So far I just cut up a 2 litre bottle and used that to success but I think I'm going to try somthing thicker next time like a 409 bottle.
It's much more difficult to put on the new tire then it is to get the old one off. When installing the new tire, the first side goes on easy if you soap up the bead good you can install it with out tools. Just keep pushing it around. Now is the time to line up the dot on the tire(the lightest part of the tire) to the valve stem(the heavyest part of the wheel). Next start working the tire onto the wheel and hold one side with a tire iron and I found it easiest to hold the other with the ram of the bead breaker. Make sure to keep the tire pushed into the middle of the wheel. It makes the rest go on much smoother. keep working the tire around a little at a time. Too much at once and you can dammage the tire. Make sure it's soaped up too. Once it's on, air it up and seat the bead. It pops loud when it seats. Might want to wear some safty goggles while doing this as soap will come flying out. Reinstall your schrader valve and set the pressure.
For ballancing I made a steel rod fit two old bearings out of my rollerblades and set it on two jack stands. I add weight at the top of the wheel until it will stay in any position I put it in. I've never had a ballance issue doing it this way.
I hope this might help anyone who might want to take on the task themself and save some bucks. I've change out two tires now on it and it only took about 20 minutes a tire.
001
002
003
004
005
006
007
