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Use the same guage wire, nothing smaller in diameter. Don't use anything that's solid core. Use stranded wire. You will have to add your switch in series with your current kill switch for it to work.
 
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if you don't have schematics for your bike, then what you'll have to do is trace the end of the kill switch to the connecting point to the harness. when you find that, disconnect it. use a multimeter in the ohms position and with the kill switch in the run position, find a pair on the connector that is shorted. place the kill switch in off and recheck for an open. to truely verify your open, the multimeter will give you the same reading as if you're not even making a connection with the leads. make a note which pair on the connector gave you the indications you're looking for. check other pair combos to make sure you have the correct pair. once you've verified that you have the right 2 ends of the connector, peal back some of the plastic outter insulation and pick either wire that goes to the kill switch. splice in to each cut your new kill switch. it really doesn't matter which wire you pick to splice. you're making a splice in series with no reference to ground. of course, before you use a mutimeter to take a reading, you should always check the resistance value of your leads by touching them together and note the indicated value. here's a little example
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
if you don't have schematics for your bike, then what you'll have to do is trace the end of the kill switch to the connecting point to the harness. when you find that, disconnect it. use a multimeter in the ohms position and with the kill switch in the run position, find a pair on the connector that is shorted. place the kill switch in off and recheck for an open. to truely verify your open, the multimeter will give you the same reading as if you're not even making a connection with the leads. make a note which pair on the connector gave you the indications you're looking for. check other pair combos to make sure you have the correct pair. once you've verified that you have the right 2 ends of the connector, peal back some of the plastic outter insulation and pick either wire that goes to the kill switch. splice in to each cut your new kill switch. it really doesn't matter which wire you pick to splice. you're making a splice in series with no reference to ground. of course, before you use a mutimeter to take a reading, you should always check the resistance value of your leads by touching them together and note the indicated value. here's a little example
Thanks for the info.
 
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I hope it makes sense and that I explained things clearly enough. Let us know how everything turned out and show us some pics of your work.
 
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If he hasn't cut into his wires yet..... There's an alarm manufacturer who makes special "OE" relays that replace your master or starter relay. It's actually a reciever that you control with a remote(arm/disarm) that allows your bike to function/start. Their newer system has a proximity remote which doesnt' require any button pushes to work. When you walk close to the bike, it's disarmed. Walk away, and it's armed. I forgot the name of the company, but I'll try to find it again. I'm sure someone else knows who they are.....?
 
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