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Re: Rev limiter

alright guys this is how to eliminate the rev. limiter in reverse first pull up this page and print it out for the plug/wire diagram RinconRiders.com - CanvasWiki | Reverse Overridenow pull off your passenger seat, seat bracket, center plastic, and passenger plastic where the seat was and you'll be looking something like this

ok where that hole is between your tank and the frame that you see on the lower right side of the pic stick your hand in there and feel on the back side of the plastic i guess you would call it the tank guard and you will feel two plugs back there the one you need to unplug is the back one (the one closest to the rear of the bed) one you get that unpluged pull it out like shown you will have to cut a tie strap to get it to come out this much

now here comes the fun part cut away a little part of the wire coating

and follow the wire diagram on the web site i gave you

i used and 3 prong on/off/on switch for mine you want the gray wire coming from the engine going to the center prong and then put the blue wire on one side and the other gray on the other side that way you'll have a stock position and a 3 speed reverse position this is where i mounted my switch made it easy to run the wires and easy to get to, to turn it on

finished product

now if you do this when you switch the rev. limiter off your reverse light will go off and i don't have a digital dash on mine but i know on a rincon the shift indicator goes blank (just alil heads up so you don't think you messed something up...lol)
 

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Thanks for the info, wish we could have some pictures or something to see, link's broken too so no wiring diagram.
 

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It's much easier to do if you just find the wires where they plug into the computer in the battery box. For the most part the battery box is sealed, you don't need to run any wires under the floorboards, and there's no chance of the wires getting damaged.
 

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It's much easier to do if you just find the wires where they plug into the computer in the battery box. For the most part the battery box is sealed, you don't need to run any wires under the floorboards, and there's no chance of the wires getting damaged.
Can i get a picture or description of what these wires are? I have virtually no reason to switch back once my reverse rev limiter is defeated so the sealed battery box would be a great solution.
 

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Just remove your battery box cover. The computer is at the rear of it. There are three connectors that plug into the top of it. Two of them, the passenger side and center connectors have a number of small wires going to them, one is gray and one is black one. The third connector only has a few larger wires. The gray connector (passenger side) is the one that has the three wires going to the F/N/R switch. I can take a picture if you want.
 

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I'd like to do this also. Can we get any pics of battery box mod? I won't be changing mine after its done either.
 

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I took a couple of pictures but you really can't see much. I'll draw up a simple wiring diagram and you'll see how easy it is. I was mistaken, it's not the gray plug on the left but the black plug in the center. Here's two pictures of the computer, the first in place and then with it out.

You can see in the second picture one of the two slots in the rubber that mounts the computer in place. You just simply pull it out. If you look closely at the black plug you can a gray wire harness with two wires in it, one going to the computer and one going into the black wire loom. That's where I cut the reverse wire and what you can see is the gray heat shrink.

Once I get a wiring diagram you'll realize just how easy it is. I modified mine for reverse lights so there's extra stuff that you don't need.
 

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This is a little crude but hopefully it's enough.



The circuit on the left is Honda's design. The way it works is the computer monitors the three wires going to the shift position switch mounted on the back of the engine. The switch grounds one of the three wires, if the reverse wire is grounded then the computer thinks it's in reverse and will limit the engine RPM and not shift gears.

The design on the right is what you need to do to fool the computer into thinking that it's in Drive when really you're in reverse. You'll need a single poll double throw switch that doesn't have a middle position. I'm using a momentary push button switch ( have to push on the switch to override and once I let off it goes back to normal). I made a section of the neutral wire gray to hide it, you don't need to do anything with it.

I'm pretty sure about the wire colors but you should test your connector to verify. With the key off simply disconnect the black plug from the computer and then use a multimeter to identify the wires. Set the meter to conductivity and ground the black probe wire on the meter and then touch the pin connected to the blue wire in the connector. When in Drive it will read 0 ohms (a short) when in neutral or reverse it'll read open. Do the same with the gray wire, in reverse it'll read 0 ohms. If they aren't the right wires then just check each wire until you find the two wires.
 

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Hey Guys, I wired in a set of reverse lights last night. I thought I had the reverse indicator light wire found, turns out it lights when shifted into reverse and drive. I wired in a relay and everything is set to get the job done. I just can't find a wire that is hot when I put it in reverse. Any help with this would be great. Maybe some of you have already done this and can tell which wire it is specifically? By the way, it's a brand new 2013 Big red
 

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There is no wire that's "hot" when you shift into reverse. The way it works is there are three wires that come out of the computer that are "hot" and the switch on the engine grounds one of the three wires.
 

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I've got reverse lights on my BR. What I did was use a couple of standard automotive relays (cheap on ebay). I used power that only comes on when the key is on and fed that directly to the coil on the relays (pin 85). I then cut the reverse wire going from the computer to the switch on the engine. I used the engine side of the reverse wire to connect to the relay (pin 86). So when in reverse the switch grounds the reverse wire and picks 2 relays.

The first relay has power going to one side of the output (pin 30) and the wire going to the reverse lights connects to the terminal (pin 87) that only makes contact when the relay picks. The second relay has the reverse light wire going to the computer on one side (pin 30) and a wire going to ground on the pin 87 (*).

I doubt I had to cut the reverse wire, could have just tapped into it but I was a little cautious to protect the computer but also because I wanted to make a reverse override. To do it I took the wire that went to ground on the second relay with the (*) and went to pin 87a on a third relay, pin 87 ties into the forward wire from the computer to the engine. Pin 85 has the same ignition on power and pin 86 goes to a push button switch that grounds that wire when I push it. It fools the computer into thinking it's in forward when I'm really in reverse.
 

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Thank you Dr Al. I'll give it a try but I am not interested in the override just yet, only the lights.

But I have a couple of questions
1. Does the #86 pin on the 2nd relay just go to ground?
2. #30 pin on the 1st relay go to 12v power from the battery?
 
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